I’m really tired of these 12 hour bus rides. Next year strictly planes & trains. However after riding through the night and watching the moon, the stars and the towns lights bouncing off the Adriatic Sea, I saw the most spectacular scenery I have ever scene thus far in Europe. Specifically from Split to Dubrovnik. Wow.
We arrived in Zaton Mali, 15 minutes from Dubrovnik at our private accommodations and went straight to bed. Later that evening we headed into the old Dubrovnik.
After a night of pizza and beer, the next morning we headed back into Dubrovnik. Explored a little then headed to old Dubrovnik to walk those legendary walls. It sounds exhausting just talking about it.
Dubrovnik, this is one of the most popular tourist destinations on the Adriatic, with a population of 43,770 in 2001.
The prosperity of the city of Dubrovnik has always been based on maritime trade. In the Middle Ages, as the Republic of Ragusa, also known as the fifth Maritime Republic (together with Amalfi, Pisa, Genoa and Venice), it became the only eastern Adriatic city-state to rival Venice. Supported by its wealth and skilled diplomacy, the city achieved a remarkable level of development, particularly during the 15th and 16th centuries.
Although demilitarised in the 1970s with the intent of forever protecting it from war devastation, in 1991, after the breakup of Yugoslavia, it was besieged by Serb-Montenegrin forces for 7 months and heavily damaged by shelling.
Ok so the Walls of Dubrovnik are these defensive stone walls that have surrounded and protected the citizens since the city’s founding prior to the 7th century. With numerous additions and modifications throughout history, it have been considered to be amongst the great fortification systems of the Middle Ages, as they were never breached by hostile army during thiat time period. The oldest systems of fortifications around the town were likely wooden palisades. Today’s intact city walls, constructed mainly during the 12th–17th centuries have long been a source of pride for Dubrovnik.
The walls run an uninterrupted course of approximately 1,940 metres (6,360 ft) in length, encircling most of the old city, and reach a maximum height of about 25 metres (82 ft). The bulk of the existing walls and fortifications were constructed during the 14th and 15th centuries, but were continually extended and strengthened up until the 17th century.
This complex structure, amongst the largest and most complete in Europe, protected the freedom and safety of a “civilised” and “sophisticated” republic that flourished in peace and prosperity for five centuries. The walls were reinforced by three circular and 14 quadrangular towers, five bastions (bulwarks), two angular fortifications and the large St. John’s Fortress. Land Walls were additionally reinforced by one larger bastion and nine smaller semicircular ones, like the casemate Fort Bokar, the oldest preserved fort of that kind in Europe. The moat that ran around the outside section of the city walls which were armed by more than 120 cannons, made superb city defense.
I was asked which town I like more Split or Dubrovnik. That is really only a tourist question. Both are Dalmatian cities almog the coast. I would imagine Dubrovnik’s old town is bigger than Split’s Diocletian’s Palace. The streets of Dubrovnik are straight forward on the x and y axis. In Split the streets have no order and probably feel bigger because you’ve been walking around in circles for hours. I love that about Split.
In Croatian, the city is known as Dubrovnik in Italian as Ragusa, its historical name, in Greek its Raiyia. Tourists call it the pearl of the Adriatic…speaking of pearls; There is no better way to add to the splender of the walled city than with a pirate ship. We found where it was docked later. I looked for Captain James Sparrow but…he was on his coffee break.
I never found an official beach around here so it’s pretty amazing how any area can be transformed into a make shift beach, i mean all you really need is water, right? And what better water than the water along the Adriatic coast.
Onions, I’m not sure if it’s an ex-Yugoslavian thing but the pizza in Serbia and Croatia is some of the best pizza I ever tasted. Maybe it’s the local ingredients or the fact the pizzerias are family owned. After eating that you can’t come back to Toronto and look at pizza the same way, ever. One really wicked place was this pasta restaurant, not sure why we were drawn to it but damn. You choose your pasta then you choose your sauce. It’s not just your typical meat sauce for example they have percutio meat or creamy curry chicken sauce. Unbelievable. I think we ate there 3 times out of the 6 days we were here. We even asked the cook for the receipe and was surprised when he actually wrote it down for us. The other highlight was our new friend Baltazar. He walked by a few times staring at us. We invited him to sit and of course he didn’t want to disturb us but we insisted. Baltazar lived in the old age home right beside the restaurant. He grew up just outside Dubrovnik and was one of the stone masons who helped build this city. He walks with a locket which incases a picture of his wife whom he loved dearly. She is gone now and the two never had any kids. His brothers kids don’t come to see him so he’s alone. I guess it’s possible to still feel like a prisoner behind these walls. Over a few beers we talked about life back in his day, the war and the politics behind the once great Yugoslavia. The funny thing is some of the other seniors came to sit with us and talk too. I couldn’t help but wonder if this was some sort of scam to get free beer off tourists. he he…Naw I doubt it. I think they just want company. Before we left Dubrovnik we met with him one more time and i promised him if we return next year even if its for a day we’ll come find him. Great guy.
Two hours later, exausted and sweating we were done walking these walls. Half way through they have a voluntary exit for those who can’t make all the way. As tiring as it is, it’s well worth it as you get tons of unique perspectives inside and outside of the old city
Back in Zaton Mali beside the makeshift camp grounds we actually had time to relax, well recover from all the walking in Italy right up to the walking of the wall in old Dubrovnik. On the beach, I finally learned how to float in the salt water. Once I figured that out it was napping on water for me.I love these little towns. They make you feel like part of the family, it’s different from being in a hotel, much more personal. One night while floating these DJ’s were setting up speakers right on the shore. Live club music and the moon both bouncing off the sea. Awesome.
I tried to soak up as much as this moment as possible. Next stop, back to Belgrade.
